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EUROPE 2011: Florence, Italy

Florence Pitti Palace

We rose early and caught the vaporetto to the rail station, where we boarded the train for Florence. The two-hour ride went fast. We had window seats to enjoy the passing view, but soon became absorbed in conversation with our seat companions. Laure was Italian and her husband Paolo, Argentinian. They were in Italy visiting her family. Before we left the train, we exchanged contact information and promised to look them up whenever we were in Buenos Aires, which was on our list of must-see destinations.

In Florence, we could have walked from the Santa Maria Novella train station to the hotel, a ten-minute trip, but opted for a five-minute cab ride, not realizing our hotel was so close by. My recommendation is if you don’t have heavy bags to carry or wheel, then walk, which is what we did the next day to catch a bus (at the rail station) for our tour of Tuscany.

Florence David

We checked into the Hotel dei Macchiaioli, located in the heart of the historic district, and settled in for our stay. Our room, one of only fifteen, was quiet and nicely appointed, and the hotel staff pleasant and accommodating.

After we unpacked, we walked to the Galleria dell’Accademia for our 4:00 p.m. reservation. There was some confusion as to where we should pick up our tickets. While Dave sorted out the problem, I was dismayed to see the long lines continue to grow. Once we resolved the issue, the man taking the tickets informed us that the 4:00 p.m. group was already inside, so he let us jump the line.

I couldn’t wait to see Michelangelo’s magnificent sculpture David, a Renaissance masterpiece created between 1501 and 1504. The white marble nude, which stands seventeen feet tall, represents the biblical hero David. Armed with only a slingshot, David defeats the giant. The sculpture was moved to the Accademia in 1873 to protect it from damage and later replaced with a replica at the original location, the entrance to Palazzo Vecchio.


Florence Uffizi Gallery

Our first, full day in Florence would be a long one, so we laced up our best walking shoes, grabbed our water bottles, and set out on foot to the Uffizi Gallery to see the many pieces of artwork collected by or commissioned by the House of Medici. The Uffizi has the largest collection of Italian paintings anywhere, and they are displayed on a single U-shaped floor in chronological order from the thirteenth to the seventeenth centuries. Leaving after our two-hour tour of the gallery, we bumped into Laure and Paolo—a delightful surprise. We talked for a few minutes, then said goodbye and headed to our next destination—the Pitti Palace.

Florence Bobili Gardens

The imposing building was the former residence of the grand-dukes of Tuscany and later of the king of Italy. It now houses several important collections of paintings and sculptures, porcelain, and a costume gallery. But as an avid gardener, I was more interested in seeing the magnificent Boboli Gardens, one of the earliest Italian gardens, famous also for its fountains and grottoes. It was impressive, and indeed a living work of art, so we spent hours roaming the lush landscapes and snapping more than our share of photos. We could have stayed longer, but next on our list was the Duomo, the Gothic cathedral named in honor of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Florence Duomo2

My eyes traveled from the red-tiled dome of the Duomo to the facade of the Gothic Revival cathedral, the exterior faced with polychrome marble panels in various shades of green and pink bordered by white. The interior was stark, somewhat plain, and vast. As a minimalist, the austere space appealed to me. I wanted to linger there as well, but with time a constraint, we left for our last destination of the day—a walk over the Ponte Vecchio.

Florence Ponte Vecchio

The Ponte Vecchio is a medieval arched bridge over the Arno River with shops built along both sides. At one time the stores were occupied by butchers, but in 1593 they were replaced with more prestigious occupants—gold merchants. Today, there are gold and silver jewelry boutiques, art galleries, and souvenir shops for your browsing or buying pleasure. We strolled from one end of the bridge to the other, then returned to our hotel to change for dinner. We had reservations at Ora D’aria Ristorante.

The phrase ora d’aria refers to the period when prison inmates are let out into the yard: a blessed reprieve. One of the restaurant’s dining rooms is deep inside, far from the street, and the other underground. We were seated in the former. The menu paid homage to Tuscany, and after perusing the dinner items I couldn’t wait to order.

Ora Florence

The prix fixe offering started with the “end of season meat”—rabbit with mustard—followed by homemade tagliolini. The main was grilled beef with a potato bacon tart. For dessert, we chose a chocolate and white chocolate soufflé and a crème caramel with melon. After this delicious meal, we took a leisurely stroll back to our hotel to rest up for tomorrow’s tour of Tuscany.

 

 

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EUROPE 2011: Verona and Venice, Italy

Comet Glass Star on Murano

After we checked out of our hotel, I settled into the passenger seat to enjoy the exhilarating drive south along the lake to Lecco. Other forms of transportation are certainly available in Italy, but Dave, who I think is part race car driver, can never resist driving in Europe. The roads from Lecco to Verona were good and well marked. Only once did we get turned around; we had to circle a roundabout three times until we noticed the turnoff to Bergamo. But once in Verona, we found ourselves lost and our car GPS of no help, so I resorted to my iPad. Even then, we were skeptical of the directions given since the tablet led us off the main road into a vineyard. read more…

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EUROPE 2011: Milan, Italy – Part 1

Milan Hotel

Throughout 2011 and into 2013, I concentrated on expanding and refining my website, reviewing and approving covers for Brainwasand Gadgets, and finalizing the interior design for the paperback and e-book formats for the series.

In the meantime, Caroline was editing Brainwash and I was doing a final self-edit on Gadgets as well as Genocide before I sent both off for professional editing. To help with editing the latter two books, I hired Arlene Prunkl, who happened to have a window of time to devote to them.

While Gadgets and Genocide waited in the queue to be edited, I turned my attention to the last few chapters of book four, which has the working title of Bio. The book begins with Bullet finding a trash bag in Bear Creek in Keller. So naturally, the novel is set in the surrounding metroplex of Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas.

During the fall of 2011, then the spring of 2013, my recently retired husband Dave, who has wanderlust, was ardently pitching for me to set a Darcy McClain thriller in Europe. I agreed, just so I could go back to writing Bio while he made the arrangements.

One day, I jokingly asked Dave, “Okay, so Darcy is in Europe. Why?” For years, a long-standing family joke has been that my father actually worked for the CIA, and his USAID jobs were merely cover-ups for covert operations. To my knowledge, my father never worked for the CIA or any intelligence agency, but the comment set me thinking about the possibilities for Darcy, and soon book five, with a working title of Blue, sprang to life.

In Blue, Darcy learns the shocking truth about her childhood, a startling revelation that shakes her world, making her wonder if life will ever be the same. Even her parents’ sudden deaths in a plane crash were not, in retrospect, as difficult to deal with emotionally as this new, life-altering truth.


As I’ve grown older, I’ve also grown bored with long overseas flights, and it is difficult to drag me away from the computer to sit on a nine-hour-plus flight when I could be writing. But the thought of setting a new Darcy novel in exotic locales would certainly make the long trip bearable. So in the fall of 2011, we flew nonstop from DFW International to Heathrow Airport.

After a six-hour layover in London and a productive four hours of writing, we left the Admiral’s Club and boarded a British Airways flight to Milan, Italy. I’ve always wanted to visit Milan, so I was excited about the prospect of finally realizing this dream. I love anything modern and have always marveled at the Italians’ flair for design—from Lamborghini sports cars to home furnishings to terrazzo floors, all exemplify exquisite taste.

Our hotel was no exception. The minute our taxi parked at the crowded curb outside the Boscolo Milano with its modern, lipstick-red entrance, I knew I was in for a visual treat. The doors opened to white-on-white walls and Carrara marble floors. Thousands of LEDs of various colors automatically changed hues and intensity, their brilliance magnified in the mass of mirrored and copper lighting fixtures suspended from the ceiling.

My husband had to repeat himself to me several times during check-in, as I was so taken by the unique, futuristic design that I was concentrating more on snapping photos than registering or getting our luggage to the room.

As for the hotel’s decor, this modernist style certainly doesn’t appeal to everyone, but I must be part Italian at heart. In my element for the moment, I took a self-guided tour. At every turn in this phantasmagorical jaunt I found myself captivated by stainless steel tubular sculptures, and an array of twisted and curved metal wires upon which bright light sparkled, casting its dazzle on a wall of vibrantly colored geometric designs of yellow, magenta, and green. Throughout the hotel, Italian furnishings abounded and I recognized most: Artemide lighting, Driade furniture, Meritalia chairs, and Bisazza mosaics—the essence of Italian design.

Too soon, I was pulled away from these eye-catching visuals because Dave was holding the elevator. But upstairs, the surprises kept coming. At the fifth floor the elevator door opened to a hallway of black marble accented with velvet couches in purple, red, and yellow.

The minute I crossed the threshold into our room and turned on the lights, I noticed the large bell-shaped ceiling fixture with its scalloped edges. Its warm glow shone pale yellow on the white bed linens. In one corner sat a green vinyl side chair and opposite it a wall of glass with the bathroom beyond. Through the transparent divider, white-on-white marble and mosaics shimmered under the vanity lights.

Tired after the long transatlantic flight, the six-hour stopover in London, then the two-hour flight to Milan, not to mention the time change, we decided to dine at our hotel. When I chose the risotto, the waiter hesitated. He informed me that the dish would take at least twenty minutes to prepare. In no rush, I assured him I could wait the twenty minutes. Over the years I have become a risotto aficionado after having been introduced to the dish at Pannullo’s Italian Restaurant in Winter Park, Florida. I’ve had some of the best and some of the worst. That night I had the best, and so far no one has topped the risotto at the Boscolo.

 

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